Travel Notes written on the plane home from a river cruise along the Danube:
Nothing is what it used to be.
Not me.
Not others.
Not traveling.
Not Budapest, Vienna, Salzburg, or Prague.
Not the Danube
Not my body
It is what it is,
Sitting on the plane I am fully focused on riding the bumps in the air and drinking my coffee carefully so it stays in its cup rather than overflowing like the Danube River after a heavy rain.
What comes to mind when reflecting on this Danube River Trip are:
Stones from Roman times now the cornerstone of a reproduction of an ancient building
High water marks from when the Danube overflowed its banks,
Exposed rocks because the weather is dry and the river low
A palace in Prague with reproductions of a volcanic eruption created in concrete that reminds me of a sand castle.
Peacocks fanning their feathers in the courtyard of a castle
Cobblestone streets
My walking poles
Viennese iced coffee with whipped cream
The body
Good meals and conversations
Fatigue
Being my age: old!
Writing at home while recovering from jet lag:
Reflecting on the Danube River trip David and I took, I realize how I misjudged my energy level, and seeing as much as possible is not always a wise idea. Rest is glorious and enhances pleasure. I thought the cruise would be leisurely, and I would have equal time to enjoy the sights along the river as well as on the land. I planned to create a traveler’s sketchbook, but it was such a whirl I couldn’t stop long enough to craft a detailed study of the places we visited. Each city we visited was fascinating, but our time in it was short, and the touring group was large. Our desire to see as much as possible didn't allow for lounging on the boat and blinded us to a more in-depth experience. With my traveler’s mini watercolor set and a calligraphy pen, I captured impressions more visceral than data-informed. I would have liked to hang out with locals and get lost exploring the many squares and side streets in the city. The history and culture in Eastern Europe is very rich. I got a taste of it, but would have liked more.
Traveling helps me experience life from different perspectives and encounter different cultures, but I don't need to see every sight highlighted in the guidebooks, and opting for all the extra excursions is unwise. I most enjoy lingering at cafes, chatting with the populace, and being led by my interests rather than a prescribed itinerary and tour guide. I enjoyed the boat which was warm and homey with a marvelous staff and a stateroom with excellent storage and a floor-to-ceiling window. Many of the highlights of the trip revolved around meals, talking to the people on the boat, and sitting and sketching with iced Viennese coffee: rich and delicious. I was among others who used walking poles or canes and no one rushed. A few people took falls, and one had to be sent home so I made sure to walk carefully on the uneven cobblestones. I climbed up a tower in Salzburg to take in the view of the city, which was spectacular. I appreciated the effect of my morning uphill walks in Worcester. My new motto is, you can’t do it all—and that is O.K.
I continue to marvel that I am now in Worcester, MA., and a few days ago I was sitting on a plane somewhere over Greenland surrounded by sky, and moving rapidly over the earth, with the hum of the plane’s engine filling my ears. I was too tired to read, watch a movie, or listen to music, and too overwrought to sleep, but happy I was able to be away. I appreciate how travel enlarges my world, keeps me fresh, and helps me see with new eyes. Returning to Worcester, I am struck by the greenery that wasn't here before I left. The trees are fully leafed out, the rhododendrums are spectacular, and there is a lot of new growth in the neighborhood. There is a sunflower growing in our garden.
It is a wonder that I am here now, in our home, and a few days ago, I was surrounded by baroque architecture and carefully planting my walking poles on ancient cobblestones in Prague, the Czech Republic. Two days after I returned home, I attended a Bat Mitzvah for David’s cousin. This is a religious coming-of-age ceremony for a Jewish young man or woman at thirteen. In it, the Torah, which is a sacred text, is read in Hebrew, chanted, and reflected upon by the young person. The Torah is very precious, and the Rabbi informed us that the one she held was very old and from the Czech Republic. The Rabbi had the family line up and pass it along from one generation to the next. I found this very moving and synchronistic, as we had just been to the Czech Republic and visited the Old-New Synagogue in Prague, where the Torah might have resided. The synagogue was built in the 13th century and was very beautiful. Our guide said that it had survived the war because the Nazi's liked Prague.
In the synagogue in Brookline, Massachusetts, my husband and I stood, along with the mother of the Bat Mitzvah girl, at the beginning of the line. We were the oldest generation. I found it very poignant to be standing there and witness a continuation of tradition and also mourn those who were absent, not only from our family, but also those who died during the holocaust. I have always wanted to visit Eastern Europe and have been curious about it. Both sets of my grandparents came from Poland, Germany, and /or Lithuania. This heritage is a part of me. I lived with my father’s parents until I was ten. They spoke Yiddish as well as German and Polish. I never understood the Yiddish (it was spoken when they didn’t want me to know what they were saying). I can’t speak or understand it, but it's similar to German, and being in Eastern Europe brought back a sense of my grandparents and their home. It also heightened my awareness of being Jewish.
When I decided to go on the river trip along the Danube, I envisioned leisure, romance, and culture. I thought of Strauss and Mozart, Freud and Baroque architecture. I didn’t expect the effects of World War II to enter into my consciousness as powerfully as they did, and I believe it contributed to some of the fatigue I experienced. David and I were able to spend time at two of the largest synagogues in Europe, the Dohany Street Great Synagogue in Budapest and the Old-New Synagogue in Prague. We visited the holocaust musuem in the cellar of the Donahue synagogue, where Jews were held as prisoners and treated inhumanely. I felt the residue in my body. We also went to Terezin, a camp for political prisoners and a transit camp for Jews to be shipped to gas chambers. Very few survived either the journey or the camp. This could have been me.
Time and Locale changes, but I wonder about human nature. I have had the privilege of visiting many countries and tasting diverse cuisines rich in local produce and customs. I am struck by the universality of human nature and the ubiquity of hunger and fear. There is also a universal need to love and be loved. It makes me appreciate the goodness and generosity of heart and mind that meditation fosters and is present in my world. I feel fortunate. I don’t really need to leave home to realize how inter-connected and inter-dependent we all are. May we learn from our mistakes and cultivate wisdom and kindness. Together, much can be accomplished.

